Before embarking on sewing creations, it is important to know how to choose your needle. Indeed, whether it is to sew by hand or to sew by machine, this choice is decisive. A perfectly adapted needle will simplify the work of the designer. Here is some information that will help you choose the right needles for your sewing work.
There are many different kinds of sewing machine needles, each designed for specific sewing on a particular fabric. In this article, we give you valuable advice on choosing the most suitable needle for your sewing of the day.
Why is the sewing machine needle important?
The sewing needle is one of the centerpieces of the sewing machine: it allows great precision in refined and meticulous sewing work.
A needle that is unsuitable for its purpose - too thick a needle on a thin fabric, or too thick fabric sewn with too fine a needle - can either damage the machine or leave visible stitch holes in the fabric.
We conclude from this a fundamental rule: for each fabric its needle size.
Before going to your favorite little haberdashery to sew a knot or buy your haberdashery on a website, you have to take a good look at what type of needle is right for my machine and know that these do not fit. not suitable for all fabrics.
The basic functions of a needle are fourfold:
- Create a passage for the sewing thread in its support,
- Allow the needle thread to be taken into its holder,
- Make a loop captured by the hook,
- Pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper.
A sewing machine needle consists of 10 elements, each of which has its little functionality:
- The end: to be fixed on the sewing machine,
- The heel: thick part of the needle, it can be flat or round,
- The shoulder: part between the heel and the wing,
- The fin or lateral groove: the part where the thread passes, between the heel and the eye (subject to friction, it heats up),
- The long groove,
- The short groove,
- The eye: this is the hole in which the sewing thread passes to be pulled down,
- The clearance,
- The point: it allows the sewing thread to penetrate the fabric,
- The final tip.
It is, ultimately, the needle that makes the quality and the perfect finish of the clothes to be made.
The different types and sizes of sewing needles
Que l'on utilise une surjeteuse, une machine à coudre électronique ou mécanique, les aiguilles à coudre sont numérotées de 60 à 110 : c'est le diamètre de l'aiguille, exprimé en 100ème de millimètre.
Let's take a look at the types of needles and their different sizes: we have 7 types of sewing machine needles.
Standard needle: with a so-called normal point, it adapts to poplin, satin, natural (such as cotton fabric), and synthetic fabrics. It is ideal for sewing shirts, dresses, suits, sheets, coats, or making table linen. Except for size 110, all sizes can be used (60, 70, 80, 90, and 100).
Jersey needle: with a round-ended point, this needle will appreciate jersey and lycra fabrics. Compatible sizes are 70, 80, and 90.
Microtex needle: very fine point needle, for very fine fabrics. Chiffon, taffeta, linen thread, veil, silk thread, and microfibers. Use sizes 60 and 80.
Stretch needle: used for knitting. Equipped with a ballpoint, it is suitable for knitting wool and curtains. The usable sizes are 75 and 90.
Leather needle: its triangle point allows sewing thick leather and imitation leather fabric, with sizes of 80, 90, and 100.
Jeans needle and firm fabrics: this has a fairly fine, chrome-plated tip. Fits well on seams on heavy jeans and overalls, faux fur, gabardine, plastics and oilcloth, corduroy, denim. A thick size will work: 90, 100 and 110,
Patchwork needle: with a fine point, it is used to prick the fabric with padding. Choose an average size of 75 and 90.
It may happen that, in the rush of the work of a seamstress, she omits to replace the needles in their place.
As a result, as soon as they come out of their initial packaging, identifying them can be synonymous with wasting time or at best, off-putting: this is why we recommend adopting a color code to easily identify them.
Sticking stickers that match each type of needle (red for a jersey, black for leather, blue for jeans, white for linen, for example) can be an incredible time-saver for messy seamstresses.
Which sewing machine needle to choose?
To sew with a sewing machine, you must also know how to choose the right needles. Otherwise, the machine may be damaged. Here is some information on how to choose your machine needles, depending on the different fabrics. Our products are often sets of needles in several sizes, which allows them to be used on fabrics of different thicknesses.
Standard Needles: These have a normal point and can be used for machine sewing on natural fabrics, but also on synthetic fabrics. The dimensions of our standard needles, which are the most used in sewing, are as follows: between 70 (for thin fabrics) and 100 (for thicker fabrics).
Jersey Needles: These needles have a rounded point. They can be used by machines to sew several fabrics. Size 70 makes it easy to sew mesh and lycra, size 80 is recommended for jersey and tulle, while size 90 is recommended for knitting.
Leather Needles: With a triangle point, they allow you to sew on leather, imitation leather, and even heavy leather fabrics. We offer an assortment of leather needles in different sizes: between 80 (for imitation leather and fine leathers) and 100 (for thicker leathers).
Stretch Needles: These needles, thanks to their ballpoint, are ideal for sewing stockinette, muslin, wool, and even velvet. On our site, you can find stretch needles size 90, very easy to fit on a sewing machine.
Jeans needles: they have a rather fine, chrome-plated tip. Jeans needles are recommended for sewing on jeans fabrics of different thicknesses. They can also be used on lightly plasticized fabrics and on corduroy. Our jeans needles have dimensions between 90 (for thin fabrics) and 100 (for thick jeans).
When and how to change the needle?
If the needle that has been used for months - for sewing patchwork fabric, linen fabric, or jersey - is damaged, it may break, bend, or make very uneven and patchy seams.
The needle should not be blunt or bent.
Each new sewing project must require a needle change.
To go from sewing printed fabric for the tapestry to sewing decorative fabrics, or to do cross-stitch embroidery, the needle will need to change. Remember to sew a pocket, for example.
How to change my needle?
- Remove the needle bar by turning the handwheel of the sewing machine (the part used to operate the needle, the claws, and the take-up lever).
- Lower the presser foot,
- Take the needle with your bare hand, unscrew the needle clamp screw,
- Remove the needle
- Insert the new needle by turning its flat side from the heel to the back of the sewing machine,
- Insert it until you reach the needle bar and tighten the needle holder screw.